INSTALLATION

2015/5/28

 

Installation Instructions for Engineered Wood Flooring
Important notice
 
Engineered wood floors are suitable for all rooms other than those that are subject to excessive moisture and high levels of humidity.
 
All wood is hydroscopic (it will react to the moisture in the environment) and as a result will expand or contract accordingly. All sources of moisture must be rectified prior to the installation of the ¬floor, and moisture levels in rooms fitted with wood flooring should be maintained at a stable level, in line with normal living conditions. Any construction dampness must be completely dry.
 
It is important that you check each plank for any manufacturing defects. Any faults must be reported back to the store of purchase for an immediate refund or replacement prior to the flooring being installed. The boards in this pack are of random lengths and should be laid randomly across the floor to create the best effect. It is advisable to open a few cartons at a time to mix boards from each pack as they are installed.
 
I. Preparations
 
- Calculate the total square meters or square footage of the room(s) and add 10% for cutting and waste.
 
- The flooring should be placed in the room where it is to be installed to acclimatize for 48 hours. It should be carefully stacked, in its packaging, to allow air to circulate. The boards should be stored and laid in a relative humidity between 45%-65% and at a room temperature of between 18°C and 21°C (65 degrees to 70 degrees Fahrenheit). Engineered wood flooring is a natural product which will mature with age. The shade of your ¬floor will change through exposure to sunlight.
 
- All substrates must be structurally sound, and dry. The surface should be free of all contaminants and loose material. All potential sources of moisture e.g. walls, drains, damp proof courses, plumbing, fridges, washing machines etc. MUST be thoroughly checked and rectified if found to be an issue.
 
- The boards should be installed lengthways towards the main incoming light source and, where possible, down the length of the room.
 
If installing onto a concrete or screed base
 
- In good drying conditions allow one day per 1mm of new screed/concrete to ensure it is dry. Further time may be necessary depending on site conditions.
 
- Existing screeds/concrete must be checked for moisture. This can easily be carried out using a moisture meter, or alternatively sheets of polythene approximately the size of 1 meter x 1meter square can be taped on to the screed and a heavy weight placed on top for 24 hours. Presence of moisture in the screed will be confirmed if the screed is discolored, or if moisture is apparent on the underside of the polythene. If moisture is present, i.e. over 12%, wood floors must not be fitted until the problem has been rectified. Please seek a professional installer’s advice for options to resolve.
 
If installing onto a wood subfloor
 
Engineered wood flooring can be fixed directly onto prepared floorboards. If the existing floorboards are sufficient, the new boards can be laid directly on to them at 90°. If the existing floor is not suitable, it must made suitable and level by overlaying with Exterior Grade plywood. Loose boards must be secured or the new floor may squeak. Please note: If nails/staples/screws are being used, care must be taken not to damage pipes or electrical cables beneath. If the new boards are to be laid in the same direction as the old, plywood sheets (minimum depth 6mm) should be nailed, stapled or screwed to cover the existing floor, allowing a 15mm (5/8”) perimeter gap for expansion.
 
Subfloors with radiant heat
 
IMPORTANT: Due to the speed of sudden temperature changes, which has potential to negatively affect flooring construction, it is not recommended to install with electrical radiant heating system. This will not be covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. Below instructions is for radiant heating system using water.
 

Ensure the radiant heat surface temperature never exceeds 27 degrees Celsius (81 degrees Fahrenheit). Before installing over newly constructed radiant heat systems, operate the system at maximum capacity to force any residual moisture from the cementitious topping of the radiant heat system. Then set the thermostat to a comfortable room temperature for the installation. It is recommended that the radiant heat be applied in a gradual manner after installing the flooring. Refer to the radiant heat system’s manufacturer recommendations for additional guidance.

 

II. Installation Methods

 

There are a number of methods for installing wood floors, floating, gluing or stapling. Apart from where specified in the following sections, most existing floor finishes e.g. lino, carpet etc., should be removed prior to installation of your new wood floor. (note – do not try to remove old vinyl as it may contain asbestos. If in doubt, contact a professional flooring contractor for guidance).

 

NOTE: If your room wider than 6 meters (19.7ft), we recommend to split installation in two for expansion gap. The expansion gap can be hidden with a T-molding.

 

1. Floating installations

 

Before floating installation of the engineered flooring begins, install a foam underlay. Run the foam underlay in the same direction as the flooring planks. The underlay should be butted side-by-side with no overlap. Tape seams together. Your floor is made to be installed floating with glue:

 

Leave an open expansion gap of min 6/16" (10mm) around the whole perimeter (use the distance wedges), i.e. also at pipes, stairs, columns, doorframes and thresholds. In large rooms, calculate 1/16" (1,5mm) / m floor around. Install maximum 32ft 11/16" (10m) length /width; over this: allow for an expansion gap, to cover with a profile of wood or metal. The floor must be able to move freely - do not connect or install tight to any construction part. Rooms with off square areas like for example L-, F-, T-, and U- shapes, separate the areas with an expansion joint, and especially in door openings. At any question contact your distributor for further information, installation at doors, glue down, etc

 

Claims regarding visible defective floor panels must be made prior to installation. Each board should be inspected to ensure that the quality is acceptable. No claims relating to surface defects can be accepted after installation.

 

Installation method of floor panels

 

1. First plank, first row. Place a distance ca 3/8" (10mm) width to the left and position the plank against the wall. Later, after 3 rows, you can easily re-position the flooring on the front wall with 3/8" (10mm) expansion gap. 
2. Second plank, first row. Place this plank tight to the short end of the first one.  3. At the end of the first row, leave an expansion gap of 3/8" (10mm), to the wall and measure the length of the last plank to fit. 
4. Cut with a jig saw – hardwood turned down or with a hand saw with the hardwood visible. 
5. Second row. First plank min length 1ft 7 11/16" (500mm). Leave an expansion gap of 3/8" (10mm) against the wall. Generally, minimum distance between short ends of planks in parallel rows shall not be less than 6" (150mm).  Adjust distance between the front wall and the flooring by leaving an expansion gap of 3/8" (10mm). 
6. Last row (and perhaps also first row).Minimum width 2" (50mm). Remember you need the expansion gap of 3/8" (10mm).

 

Disassembling A (Angling up)

 

Separate the whole row by carefully lifting up and releasing the whole row. Fold up and release the whole long side. Disassemble the panels by angling the short sides up vertically.

 

Disassembling B (Sliding sideways)

 

Separate the whole row by carefully lifting up and releasing the whole row. Fold up and release the whole long side. Disassemble the panels by sliding up horizontally. 
No polymer tongue on the short side, first and/or last row. Joining at short ends length cut panels, glue the joint with white PVAc D3 glue. (or premium wood flooring glue).

 

Cut off the locking element witha chisel, put PVAc D3 white glue (or premium wood flooring glue) on the adjusted strip and push the planks horizontally together. If necessary, place some distances between the last panel and the wall to keep the planks together during the curing time of the glue.